Birchwood Covent Garden is the new restaurant from acclaimed chef Will Devlin, chef-farmer behind the Acre restaurant group, having opened in late June. Best known for his Michelin Green Star-winning restaurant The Small Holding in Kent, Devlin stays true to its farm-to-table philosophy, with a focus on traceability, seasonality and using produce at its best.

At Birchwood, that means much of the meat and animal produce comes from Block, the group’s own farm and butchery in Kent, while vegetables are sourced from Acre farms and independent growers across the South East.

From a British-focused menu to its all-English and Welsh wine list, this relaxed, small-plates restaurant celebrates British ingredients without feeling overly earnest.

We visited the restaurant recently – here’s everything you can expect if you’re having a languid breakfast or a casual dinner here.

What’s the vibe like?

Adjacent to members’ club The Conduit, this restaurant is a breezy space (and not just because of its relentless air conditioning system — a blessing during these scorching summer days). It feels more like a composed library/living room than a traditional restaurant, with woody, earthy tones throughout and tables spread around the central kitchen and bar. It does have that members’ club breakfast vibe to it — perhaps even more so than at dinner.

What’s on the menu?

This is a small plates affair, so there’s no such thing as a starters, mains and dessert procession. Instead, order what you fancy and enjoy the culinary journey through British produce.

We started with wholegrain sourdough and whipped butter (£5). The bread wasn’t quite as dark and molten as we were expecting, but the butter was divine — and a very generous portion too.

Mushroom croquettes and black garlic (£6) were an absolute melt-in-the-mouth, meaty delight — a flavour bomb, and most definitely a must-order.

The staff recommended trying some of the charcuterie, so we ordered the beef bresaola (£8): thick slices of cured beef that were every bit as salty and pungent as you’d hope. If you’re a meat eater, don’t skip this section of the menu. As mentioned earlier, the meats come from Block, the restaurant’s butchery in Kent.

What’s more? Some of our favourites

Next came a selection of English tapas, including:

Nutbourne tomato salad with lovage pesto and crumbled feta (£8) — a good reminder never to underestimate the humble throw-together salad. When the ingredients are high quality, even the simplest dishes can be incredibly flavoursome. We all know most tomatoes in England can taste like nothing at all, but bite into a fresh, sweet, plump tomato and the difference is clear. This one came with a generous dose of pesto too, making it a surprisingly moreish dish.

Chicken skewers with fermented chilli (£12) — unfortunately, this was the weakest dish of the meal. There were quite a few dry pieces of chicken, and it needed a stronger kick of chilli sauce.

Grilled courgette flatbread with lovage pesto and Rachel cheese (£10) — our favourite dish by quite some distance. A really lovely, giving flatbread topped with a thick layer of pesto (their pesto is brilliant — herby, zingy and salty) and beautifully flavourful slices of yellow courgette.

Cheese selection with oat biscuits and apple preserve (£14) — nothing life-changing, but a lovely spread and the perfect pairing for the wines if you decide to try a few.

And what’s for desserts?

All the desserts sound heartwarmingly homely without feeling boring. There’s coffee and cobnut cake (£8), carrot cake with meadowsweet cream cheese (£8) and — the one we ordered to share — dark chocolate mousse with cherries (£10). It was the cherry on top of a lovely, lively meal: sweet enough, harmonious, and with the right contrast of textures, from the creamy mousse to the soaked cherries and crunchy chocolate meringue.

Cocktails and British wines

We opted for a rum punch (which was lighter and more uplifting than usual) and a glass of English white wine. The wines are all from the UK, and there are some very interesting options on offer, including an orange wine from Wales, no less. If you’re visiting, it’s worth trying a few and relying on the knowledgeable staff to guide you through some of the best choices.

Verdict

This tapas-like concept is notably trendy, and Birchwood does it beautifully in its own English style. There’s a wide range of tasty, unique dishes on offer, plenty of vegetarian-friendly options, and a great selection of wines to pair them with. The location is, of course, unbelievably convenient. Come for an early dinner, or visit for breakfast or brunch on a weekend. It’s really rather lovely, and the staff are incredibly welcoming.

Key details

Address: 6 Langley St, London WC2H 9JA

Website: birchwood-family.com/covent-garden

Socials: @birchwood.coventgarden

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