Review: Lady of The Grapes London Bridge is a charming French bistro with unique wines and excellent food

This is the summer of wining and dining in style, with lots of lovely wine bars popping up across London. One of the latest to launch, following the huge success of its first outpost in Covent Garden, is Lady of the Grapes London Bridge.

This French-inspired bistro and natural wine bar is just off the side of Borough Market and serves organic, biodynamic and low-intervention wines from independent producers. The concept celebrates female winemakers, with a carefully curated list that champions smaller vineyards alongside seasonal, ingredient-led dishes that pair with the wines.

We visited the restaurant recently – here’s all you need to know about it.

What are the vibes like?

The building itself is hard to miss. Set just moments from Borough Market, Lady of the Grapes has the kind of imposing frontage that makes you curious enough to step inside – and, crucially in the middle of yet another London heatwave, it also comes with a very welcome terrace tucked along the side.

Inside, the space is bright, airy and effortlessly polished with exposed brick, huge windows flooding the room with light, and a view straight into the open kitchen. It has that sweet spot between a smart wine bar and a proper restaurant – elevated enough for a special occasion, but still relaxed enough to pop in for a glass and a few plates.

If you’re after something a little moodier, head downstairs to Forbidden Fruit, the restaurant’s basement bar. The atmosphere shifts from sunlit bistro to a more intimate, tucked-away drinking den that’s perfect for a post-dinner nightcap.

But first, wine (and cocktails)

Ordering a cocktail at a wine bar is a rebellious act that invites a few raised eyebrows from the surrounding tables. But why should the wine have all the fun?

We started with the Elysian Spritz Gibson, made with organic elderflower liqueur, honied wine and peach cordial (£12), followed by the Moscato Old Fashioned, blending Moscato, Arbikie Rye and marmalade syrup (£12.50). Both were unashamedly sweet. The real standout, however, was the Moscato Old Fashioned. Falling head over heels for a cocktail in a wine bar wasn’t on our bingo card, but here we are. It’s essentially a love letter to cherry, celebrating the fruit in all its juicy, jammy glory.

As for the wine, the list is wonderfully extensive, so you can sample a few different styles. We tried the chilled Kuzubağ Çal Karası 2024, a light-bodied red from Turkey, alongside a couple of whites: BruEmm from Italy and Chenel from New Zealand. Every pour hit the mark, but that’s really the joy of this place – you’re meant to taste and discover something new.

Elysian Spritz (£12) and Moscato Old Fashioned
(£12.5)
The wine by the glass menu

What’s on the food menu?

As expected, wine is truly the star here, but the food is far from an afterthought, so don’t hesitate to order, at the very least, a full three-course meal.

The menu is French-inspired, with a selection of starters, mains and desserts that’ll satisfy pretty much any palate. Oysters feature first, followed by some astonishingly moreish Gougères Époisses – light choux buns filled with molten Époisses béchamel. The cheese is properly melted, rich and punchy (this is no shy cheese puff). Think of it as the savoury version of a profiterole, with a gloriously creamy centre.

We also had the Fried Courgette Flower with harissa mayo, which was light and airy (not too oily). The harissa mayo packed a real punch too and added a respectable amount of heat.

Gougères Époisses béchamel (£8)
Fried Courgette Flower with harissa mayo (£12)

And for mains?

Mains are France in all its splendour and glory. We had the Brioche au Pistou with pea salad, poached egg and Parmesan (which technically isn’t a main but could very well disguise as one, especially if you order a few sides). As far as a poached egg on a brioche bun goes, this was absolutely divine. Miles away from any other similar concoction we might have eaten in the past – well-seasoned and full of flavour.

And because you can’t go to a French restaurant and not order bouillabaisse, all hail these thick, meaty chunks of monkfish sitting in a bed of bouillabaisse rouille, wilted spinach and some seriously fabulous crunchy grains. The Monkfish Bouillabaisse Sauce rouille is the star at Lady of The Grapes, and it’s no wonder why – the sauce was gloriously rich and aromatic – a comforting dish that won’t leave you uncomfortably full. We could happily eat this for lunch and dinner, all day, every day.

Brioche au Pistou
pea salad, poached egg, Parmesan (£18)
Monkfish Bouillabaisse Sauce
rouille (£29)

Last but not least, dessert is served

Our hopes and dreams were briefly crushed when we found out the kitchen had run out of the frangipane that day, so we went for what we assumed would be a close second: the incomparable Paris-Brest with hazelnut cream. Turns out, we had nothing to worry about. This is what flaky pastry dreams are made of. The thick and indulgent hazelnut cream turned this classic French bake into a proper dessert moment.

We also tried the flan parisien, which is the perfect choice if you’ve gone slightly overboard on starters (as one should). Lighter and more refreshing than your average creamy dessert. You can’t actually see the flan itself in the photo below, but you can spot the gigantic snaps of almond – and they made for a seriously delicious and balanced spoonful.

Paris-Brest
hazelnut cream (£12)
Flan Parisien
strawberries, elderflower (£11)

Verdict

Lady of the Grapes is such a classy wine bar-meets-restaurant, and yet it has zero pretence to it. It’s the perfect place to spend a warm summer evening, trying some fabulous wines and enjoying some glorious bites. The concept of showcasing and celebrating female winemakers is, naturally, admirable — which makes this restaurant all the more appealing. A welcoming spot for wine enthusiasts, but you don’t need a BA in wine to appreciate it – this is everyone’s to love.

Key details

Address: 53 Southwark St, London SE1 1RU

Website: www.ladyofthegrapes.com/london-bridge

Socials: @ladyofthegrapes_londonbridge

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