Summer is synonymous with a squeeze of lime, a salt-rimmed glass, and a messy bite of a piquant corn taco, and Tigermilk captures that vibrant, carefree energy perfectly. Founded in Paris in 2019 by Nina and Alexis Melikov, Tigermilk is often described as “a love letter to Latin America.” Since its launch, it has expanded across France, Belgium, and the UK.

Its latest UK opening – following Tottenham Court Road – is a brand-new hacienda in Spitalfields on Brushfield Street, launched on 8 May within the London Fruit & Wool Exchange, and marking the brand’s largest site to date.

What’s the vibe like?

If you’ve ever been to Mexico City and sat down in a fonda – a traditional home-style eatery -you’ll instantly recognise the terracotta tones, the patterned tiles, embroidered textiles and clay pots and greenery scattered throughout. It’s a very handcrafted, lived-in, warm beauty that only haciendas exude. Expect something of an immersive, enveloping film set – thematic but characterful.

The room is sweeping, divided into various zones, including a second, open floor that resembles a small veranda overlooking the main area. There’s no bad seat.

And what’s on the menu?

Drum roll please… The smell drifting out onto the street already gives it away before you even step inside. Corn tacos and carnitas are a real highlight, but you’ll also find dishes like ceviche and roasted lamb – it’s essentially a journey through Latin America.

Starters

Start with the guacamole and tortillas, and order the spicy version. It’s been dialled down for a mainstream audience with a timid palate, so you’re in safe hands, but the hot sauce still brings a lovely, lingering kick. We also had:

Everyday I’m Trufflin’ – a truffle quesadilla with triple cheese. They’re not shy on the filling: a generous layer of molten cheese lifted by a punch of truffle. Tuck in quickly as it lands if you want that cheese pull and peak warmth.

Sweet & Creamy Tacos – big chunks of mushy sweet potato lifted by pickled red onion, chipotle mayo and jalapeño cream. Properly filled to the brim – not the neatest eat, but packed with bold, satisfying flavour.

Mains

It’s likely that, like us, you’ll grossly overestimate how much one can actually eat over the course of one dinner. But hey, you only regret the dishes you don’t order. We got the Portobello Quesadilla, the veggie version of the carnitas quesadilla, stuffed with portobello mushrooms, triple cheese and smoky chipotle. Make use of that small but mighty pot of sauce that comes with it. It’s a flavour bomb – herby and zingy, contrasting beautifully with the heaviness of the cheese quesadilla. These were some splendid slices.

The Cauli Me Maybe cauliflower, unlike what the description says, isn’t really a cauliflower steak. Rather an actual life-size, uncut and untamed cauliflower that’s been roasted and laid to rest on a bed of green hummus. It’s topped with a pungent, refreshing chimichurri sauce, aji amarillo, coriander, and pomegranate and caramelized hazelnuts for texture. Definitely a showstopper this one – and unexpectedly filling – but credits go the supporting actors. The hummus and chimichurri really elevated what would otherwise be a pretty one-dimensional meal.

Desserts

The desserts menu is dangerously tempting, but we were so full that we ended up ordered two desserts we thought were on the lighter side (because ordering or not ordering dessert is never the question). On show:

Dulci di Latte Ice Cream – two scoops of ice cream – one dulce de leche and one Fior di Latte – from Ice Cream Par-lour. The menu description omitted what we thought was the highlight of this dessert – a drizzle of dense, luscious dulce de leche around the bowl. One very happy ending.

Maracuya Tiramisu – as you may be able to deduce from the below pictures, the portions are generous. Passion fruit may not be to everyone’s taste but if you want a cooling, lighter dessert – this tiramisu has the perfect level of zing sandwiched between thick layers of smooth, airy cream.

Verdict

If you feel like being teleported to Mexico City for one night only, Tigermilk is the place to go. Spitalfields feels like a levelled-up version of the OG venue in Tottenham Court Road. Even though it’s a crowd-pleaser place that’s likely to get crammed even on your average Wednesday, it still feels inviting and immersive, with some fabulous, soulful food and a long list of cocktails and wines on offer. An easy pick for when you’re itching for a night but can’t decide where to go – and it won’t cost a fortune.

Key details

Address: The London, Fruit & Wool Exchange, Crispin St, London E1 6AG

Website: tigermilkrestaurants.com

Socials: @tigermilkuk

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