London Fashion Week is set to kick off this Thursday, February 20th, and, as always, it promises an impressive line-up of designers that are ready to rewrite the rules of fashion.
One such designer is Hector Maclean, the British designer redefining what it means to be part of a legacy. His new AW25 collection, Bastard Aristocrat, which will be unveiled on Sunday, the 23rd of February, is a deeply personal exploration of heritage and identity. The collection draws inspiration from his own ancestry—specifically, the story of his forebear Lady Bellasis, who had an affair with King James II and bore a son acknowledged by the royal family. But this isn’t about opulent nostalgia. It’s about subversion: punk meets posh, rebellion meets refinement.
Rewriting the rules of nobility
Fascinated by the fluidity of British identity, Maclean embraces the contradictions of modern society: trash and treasure, privilege and struggle, tradition and reinvention.
“I cherish the concept that someone who is bastard aristocratic is making clothing for others, turning tradition on its head,” he says. It’s an ethos that pulses through the collection—bold embellishments, exaggerated silhouettes, and a playful, camp sensibility that refuses to take itself too seriously. This is aristocracy reimagined, made accessible, ironic, and unashamedly modern.
Telling a story
For Maclean, the storytelling doesn’t stop at concept. Every garment in Bastard Aristocrats is a statement, marrying historical references with contemporary edge. Think dramatic draping, Union Jack motifs, and intricate embellishments, all designed to provoke thought about heritage and who gets to claim it.
“Normally, I focus on high fashion and experimental shapes, but this season, it’s more about the details,” he explains. “It’s the most personal collection I’ve ever created.”
The tension between excess and restraint plays out not just in the silhouettes but in Maclean’s own creative process. A self-confessed maximalist, he found himself questioning: How much is too much? The answer lies in the careful balance of craftsmanship and irreverence—a mix of old-world regality and London’s underground energy.
Hector Maclean SS24
The focus on sustainability
Beyond aesthetics, Maclean’s brand is rooted in sustainability. But unlike many luxury designers, his approach isn’t just about industry trends—it’s deeply personal.
“All our fabrics are recycled, donated, or saved from landfill. We do zero-waste pattern cutting, and I avoid synthetics whenever possible,” he says. “Growing up, I learned to never waste anything, and that philosophy has stayed with me.”
This pragmatic approach to sustainability underscores a larger theme in his work: fashion as reinvention, both of self and of materials. In a world where quiet luxury is dominating, Maclean’s commitment to extravagance (without environmental recklessness) is a refreshing counterpoint.
Q&A with Hector Maclean
Tell us more about your latest collection bastard aristocrats and your own background that inspired it.
“The collection is based on myself and my ancestor Lady Bellasis, who had an affair with King James II. The idea is that we can all come from royalty; that royalty is for everyone. We don’t know people’s backgrounds and heritage, and history doesn’t define the individuals we are.”
How did these themes manifest in the pieces on the runway?
“This collection is more personal and camp than I’ve ever gone before. Normally, I focus on high fashion and experimental shapes, but this time it’s about embellishment. There are Union Jacks laughs—it’s so hammy! I was afraid it was too much, but I’m excited by the transformation.”
What excites you about the fashion world right now?
“I love the return of romance in fashion—big silhouettes, draping, and, of course, John Galliano’s comeback at Maison Margiela. There’s a battle between quiet luxury and extravagance, and I really hope extravagance wins laughs. I also love the increasing sustainability in our industry.”
Sustainability seems to be a big part of your ethos—what is your approach?
“All our fabrics are recycled or saved from landfill. We do zero-waste pattern cutting and avoid synthetics as much as possible. I grew up learning not to waste, and that carries into my work.”
What work are you most proud of?
“Bringing a new silhouette to the industry and representing British fashion globally. Also, being featured in Vogue Poland was deeply meaningful—my grandmother was in a concentration camp, and I think that would have made her proud.”
Do you have a muse?
“I have many—my grandmother, my mother, my sister, and historical figures like Virginia Woolf and Tilda Swinton. My female protagonist is strong, smart, playful, and a little ridiculous.”
How do you balance innovation with maintaining a brand identity?
“Our signatures—pleats, historical references, and strong independent women—anchor us. That foundation allows for innovation.”
How has your 2014 accident shaped your views on life and work?
“It made me realize how short life is. Fashion is my fire—I have to create, or it burns me up. That urgency will never leave me.”